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I had never seen an eclipse...as far as I could recall. Back in January 1999, I came across an
item on the internet about the last total solar eclipse of the millennium, and decided that I
would make the effort to see it. The path of "totality" crossed over Munich in
Bavaria, so I thought that the eclipse would also be a good excuse to get together with my
old mate, Allen Koenig, and his good lady, Gabi, who live in Giesing just to the south of
Munich proper.
At the end of July I also received confirmation from Miguel Guzmán that he would be
traveling from Pretoria to Nurnberg in Germany to be introduced to his girlfriend's parents.
Nurnberg is close to Munich and, by sheer coincidence, Migs was going to be there on the day
of the eclipse! I arranged for us to all get together at Allen's place to party out the night
before the event, and to see the eclipse the following day.
The weather on the two days before the eclipse was atrocious. I spoke with Allen on the
afternoon of the 10th and his advice to Débra and I was NOT to do the five hour ride
from Prague to Munich as it was totally overcast and raining. The weather forecasters in
Germany were saying that there was a greater than 98% chance of overcast weather at the time of
the eclipse, and that it would almost certainly be raining. It didn't take us long to make up
our minds - we were going! Our reasoning was "What if the skies just happened to open
up at the right time and we missed the eclipse? We would not be able to forgive
ourselves"!
We left after work on Tuesday, August 10. The traffic was light and we made good time in the
1200c Skoda "Felicia"...our "pool car of choice" ;-) We made good time
to Giesing, but then couldn't find Allen's apartment. Goddamn, why did my GPS have to be in
for a service this week! Sod's law. A few phone calls later and we had retrieved Miguel,
Susanne, Allen and Gabi from the local pub, and by 23h00 we were cracking our first bottle in
the Koenig apartment! A few snacks, some good wine....and then I rolled out the BIG stuff.
Between Alan, Migs and I we almost finished a full bottle of Absinth !!! Yeeee-haaaaaaa!!!
Allen made three long distance calls using the big white telephone, and Migs crashed in a
recliner about an hour before the rest of us. Debs and I slept on the lounge floor - it was
easy!
It was a rough night, as the pictures that follow will attest. There's always so much catching
up to do when old friends get together.
We ALL felt like hell at 10h30 on the morning of Wednesday, August 11. Who cared if it was
overcast and raining, we felt in no state to be tilting our eyes skywards! Gabi's magnificent
breakfast hit the spot - coffee, tea, cold meats, bread......ahhh......felt vaguely human again!
After about half a dozen cups of tea, and some headache tablets my head stopped pounding.
Allen was still a fairly sick puppy, and was not a happy chap. He cowered in a corner,
avoiding human contact!
The Met Department had been right for once - outside it was cold, wet and totally clouded over.
But...every fifteen minutes or so we caught a glimpse of the sun and, with the eye protection
we had bought earlier, caught the start of the eclipse. We decided to go down to the park
across the road from Al & Gabi's flat. I set up my tripod and cameras, and it started
bloody raining! Once the shower had passed, the cloud thinned, and we could all clearly see
the moon moving across the sun. A remarkable experience! The Gods were really with us....
for the 20 minutes before the eclipse, and for the duration of the totality, we had a window
of blue sky!!! The view could not have been better.
The instant of totality was one I will NEVER forget. Just before the darkness, the sun looked
like a large diamond ring. Then, as light followed the valleys, craters and contours of the
moon, it looked like a string of pearls. The WHAM....darkness, stars, and a flaming
ring around the moon. Solar flares. 12h36 to 12h38. The small crowd in the park was
overcome - people cheering, gasping and repeating one word "Wahnsinn"!!
("lunacy"...quite appropriate). I was so overcome, I forgot to shoot video, but Al
did that anyway. I shot off about 20 pictures before and during the event, but Debs' camera
gave in the ghost. Migs shot off about 40 shots!
The sun returned. What a fabulous experience - well worth traveling almost 1,000 km to
witness. The next 100% solar eclipse will take place in South Africa on June 21, 2001...and we
WILL be there!! I'm hooked!
The rest of the day was shopping. Migs and Susanne came to the BMW dealer with Debs and I. I
got parts for my bike, parts for Don's bike, and a pair of Gore-Tex boots. We then sat in the
traffic for an hour before dropping Migs & Susanne at the Hauptbahnhoff. I then tried to buy
some computer pieces, with limited success. We left Munich at 17h00 and, with the post-eclipse
traffic jamming the roads, it took us 2 hours to get onto the autobahn, and then 35 kilometers
in a 30 km/h traffic jam! After almost running out of petrol and picking up a hitch-hiker at
the border, we made it back home at 01h00.
Goddamn - what a day; what an experience. My advice: DON'T miss the next total
solar eclipse in South Africa on June 21, 2001.
Enjoy my pictures!
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